The Generational Shift in Watches

For most people, the stereotypical image of a Swiss watchmaker is of an older gentleman peering through a loupe at the movement on his bench, snowy hair reflecting the picturesque Jura valley outside his window. Of course, this chocolate-box fantasy doesn't reflect the reality of professional watchmaking in Switzerland, but there is, however, a hint of truth. Watchmakers are getting older.

Luxury timepieces have never been more popular, and while this explosion of interest is great for business, it means more people to make, service and sell these wonderful creations. According to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, there were almost 61,000 people employed in the watch sector in late 2022, nearly 6% more than the previous year. However, this popularity causes problems, as we discussed in our story on the issues facing the industry [https://www.dubaiwatchweek.com/digest/danger-close-threats-facing-watch-industry]; it's estimated some 4000 new workers will be needed by 2026, to just replace people retiring from the sector — and that's not even accounting for the more skilled staff needed if the industry continues to grow.

These dry statistics paint a more evocative picture when you zoom in on them. The watch industry is changing; the old guard are retiring, slowly passing the baton to the next generation. This shift can be seen across the spectrum, from executive positions and leadership to vaunted independents and skilled makers. It was also a recurring theme that was very visible at the latest edition of Dubai Watch Week.

Some of the most prominent members of the younger generation stepping up to the proverbial plate are the Arnault family. It should come as no real surprise that the scions of the world's largest luxury goods conglomerate, LVMH, are learning the ropes in the family business. When it comes to watches, Frédéric Arnault, CEO of TAG Heuer, and Jean Arnault, Watch Director at Louis Vuitton, are leading the charge. Jean Arnault, in particular, is looking to the future of watchmaking, instituting the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independant Creatives, which aims to encourage future generations of watchmakers, an initiative that Arnault explained the importance of during his Dubai Watch Week presentation. Of course, when you're backed by the clout of the Louis Vuitton empire, this sort of initiative carries real weight, and the recently announced finalists do indeed represent some of the most interesting up-and-coming independent watchmakers.

Generational change doesn't always look like corporate-sponsored mentoring; oftentimes, in the traditional business of watchmaking, it can start a little close to home, as other DWW attendees can attest. Jean-Claude Biver needs no introduction. He's an industry veteran who cut his teeth at Blancpain and Omega, then turned Hublot into the giant that it is today. These days, though, it's Biver's own name on the dial, and Jean-Claude is working with his son Pierre at Biver Watches, who made a big statement with their debut Carillon Tourbillon. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBnqoenjsh0]

We asked Jean-Claude Biver what it was like to work with his son and what value youth had to experience. "It's a situation I've dreamed of. I've dreamed of working with my son and transferring some of my knowledge and experience, as well as learning from my many mistakes. For me, it is an accomplishment that we have succeeded. How is it for him? That's another point of view. From his 23 years of age, he cannot always see where the value is in listening to a 65-year-old man, and I accept this. Because I accept this, I learn from him. I don't dismiss his perspective; I try and analyse and understand. And because I have tried, I've learned." As usual, Jean-Claude Biver takes the traditional model of generational knowledge and turns it on his head, attributing the youth and energy of his son to teaching him some new tricks.

Another example of family transition and ensuring a safe legacy is that of Philippe Dufour and his daughter Danièla. In their talk at DWW [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdI13Bwyz2c&t=1747s], Philippe and Daniela spoke at length about the importance of family and passing it on, with Danièla making a clear point that if you have a famous name, you have to work harder to live up to it, and to prove you are worthy of it to others. Philippe explained how he began to teach his daughter his approach to watchmaking; "During her time at watchmaking school, she used to come in the workshop, and I'd show her different steps. I said to her, we're going to go from A-Z and finish a Simplicity. It was not easy at the beginning, but little by little, I'd push her. To encourage her, I said, when the watch is finished, you can keep it. So, believe me, she worked hard on it!" From Danièla's point of view, this very physical sharing of knowledge represented a powerful moment. She explained, "I remember on the last day, I put the movement in the case, I showed it to my father and started crying. I thought about all the things that had happened, which meant that I was capable and that I had chosen my profession rightfully. That watch is more than a watch. When I look at this watch, first of all, I'm really reading the time. Secondly, I have the impression that my father is with me everywhere I go when I'm wearing it. It's a relationship; it's part of the knowledge that my father has transferred to me, and that is the most amazing gift and legacy that he could ever have made. I've learned so much through this watch; I learned patience."

Generational change is often characterised as a contested space, with the young taking control from the old. For watchmaking, in these examples at least, it seems like there's something bigger at stake: legacy and the continuation of rich traditions. If the Arnaults, the Bivers, and the Dufours of this world are anything to go by, the future of watches looks to be in safe hands.