Was Watches & Wonders Boring? Is that such a bad thing?

If you believe the comments section on Instagram, Watches & Wonders 2024 was a little lacking in spice. Many argued that brands — especially the big brands — played it safe. We thought we'd check in with a handful of attendees to see if tales of a boring batch of watches were exaggerated, or if there was some fire behind the smoke.

For Austen Chu, founder and CEO of watch sales platform Wristcheck, Watches & Wonders was a little more muted this year, but for good reason. "Yes, you could say the show was quiet this year, but I think it's to be expected. Last year was such a big year for so many brands. Rolex relaunched their Daytona, and Patek Philippe released a bunch of grand complications. So I think it's only natural for it to be a bit more timid this year." One rumoured release that didn't materialise was an updated Rolex Milgauss. "I think a lot of people have been waiting for an updated version of the Milgauss. I was hoping for that. So that was a little disappointing, but who knows, maybe it'll come in the next few years." Having said that, Chu managed to find plenty of highlights, including the latest from H. Moser & Cie. "The release that surprised me the most — in the Palexpo at least — was the Moser Streamliner Openwork Tourbillon. I think it's absolutely beautiful. It's hard to create a truly beautiful skeletonised watch, but they did a great job."

Atlanta-based journalist Barbara Palumbo also thought that the show this year was on the quiet side. "I definitely agree with the general consensus that the Watches and Wonders were largely on the safe side. "Wow" moments were few and far between; however, even some of the quiet moments were really beautiful; case in point: Parmigiani's Toric releases." It wasn't just Parmigiani Fleurier's latest that impressed Palumbo; Watches & Wonders newcomers Nomos Glashütte also had a good year. "the Nomos release was refreshing and surprising. Thirty-one new dial colours and multiple colourways? Who does that? It was so fun and had a lot of people talking."

Asher Rapkin, co-founder and CEO of retailer Collective Horology, believes that the slower pace is actually a positive. "Yes, it was a quiet year, and I actually think that's a good thing. Many of the makers we partner with resisted price increases, focused on core lines and releasing new watches that were both appealing to collectors and to those just seeking something for everyday wear. Given the pullback in the secondary market, I think this was the right move. Collector passion for watchmaking is still very strong and making sure that the new releases were both aesthetically and financially accessible was the right move to keep the market vibrant and consumer interest high."

While Rapkin has argued that the slower release rate is a net positive, he still found plenty of pieces released in Geneva to keep him up at night; "I cannot get the new Singer Divetrack out of my head. Singer is a brand that I've always admired, but the Divetrack is really in a league all its own. Yes, it's expensive, but there's close to half a decade of work in that watch, and it's absolutely evident from the moment you lay hands on it. The "dive watch" is one of watchmaking's most popular tropes, and most dive watches look fairly similar to one another. But not this one - this one turns the trope on its head, rethinking and redesigning a diver from the ground up. It's absolutely astonishing. On the other end of the design spectrum, I was thrilled to see Parmigiani's new design language that debuted in the Tonda PF rollout to the new Toric. I've been waiting for Parmigiani to return to its dress watch roots, and this was a strong first outing."

For veteran journalist Robin Swithinbank the question of whether or not this edition of the fair was quiet is almost beside the point, he argues; “Watches & Wonders Genevas the watch industry’s annual apex, when the world focuses on Swiss watchmaking. The heat in the show is rising incrementally to the benefit of attendees and the detriment of those who continue to absent themselves. I expect returnees from the rebel group next year - before it’s too late.”  Certainly discussion of the significant industry absences and the many brands who capitalise on Watches & Wonders by holding side events was a more pointed discussion than ever this year, due in no small part to comments from Jean-Frédéric Dufour in a rare interview with NZZ, where he called  these brands ‘pirates’. 

The watch industry calls its new releases' novelties', a term which implies and perpetuates a constant sense of 'newness'. But it's worth remembering that these timepieces aren't' fast fashion; they're objects made with a lifespan measured in decades, so sometimes, taking it slow is the way to go.