What's the deal with Bremont?

Coming off the back of Watches & Wonders, one of the most hotly discussed stories is about British brand Bremont. They made their Geneva show debut this year and certainly had people talking. With a brand new collection, CEO, and brand direction, there was certainly a lot to discuss, but the chatter on social media and among the industry may not have been quite what Bremont was hoping for.

Before we get to the Terra Nova and why it was so contentious, it's worthwhile doing a quick explainer about who Bremont are because they're a relative newcomer on the scene.Bremont was founded back in 2002 by brothers Nick and Giles English, and the brand released its first watches in 2007. In those early days, the mission of the English Brothers was to bring commercial-scale watchmaking back to Britain, and the (fortuitously named) English brothers made it a clear point of difference to try and do things differently from the Swiss.

Like all young brands, there were ups and downs, but fundamentally, Bremont was happiest in the military aviation space, making plenty of watches for specific squadrons and generally having a solid reputation for tool-like pilot's pieces, like their popular Martin-Baker II, part of a long partnership with an ejection-seat manufacturer. The brand took on investment and, in 2021, formally opened an ambitious 20 million pound plus UK manufacturing centre called 'The Wing', capable of making 50,000 watches a year. Of course, the brand was navigating some familiar issues of scale — prices increasing, product diversifying and early adopters perhaps feeling left behind by the brand they loved.

Fast-forward to 2023, and there's plenty of change at Bremont. Hellcat Acquisitions LP has invested $59 million into the brand, and Davide Cerrato, a veteran of Tudor and Montblanc, has been appointed CEO, with the English brothers stepping out of the day-to-day running. Cerrato wastes no time talking up the brand, teasing a new collection of field watches, a new strategic direction and the importance of being in the same room as all the other major players at Watches & Wonders. As a testament to his passion and his abilities as an advocate, people started to pay attention. Anticipation was high.

So it was that, with the world's eyes glued on Watches & Wonders, Bremont unveiled the Terra Nova, the new, land-based, field watch-inspired collection, which was the spearhead for a new, three-pillared core collection revolving around land, sea and air. Terra Nova dropped in a broad collection, with a bit of everything (even a tourbillon), but significantly, a lower price point. It also debuted with branding. The Bremont propeller logo was gone, replaced with a compass wayfinder, and so to were some core brand markers, like the 'TripTick' case hardening technology. Terra Nova was the most discussed new release, but it's also worth noting that the Supermarine line also received a significant overall, making it look very much like many other dive watches on the market.

The internet, as it is wont to do, did not react well. Bremont, no doubt hoping for a successful 'Version 2.0' launch was under the microscope, and not faring very well. Comments were turned off, Nick and Giles English belatedly posted messages of support, and broadly speaking, the brand took a beating. 

That's the short version of the story that's got everyone paying attention to Bremont in 2024. The bigger question, though, is: is there any fire behind the smoke? Well, yes and no. There's a long track record of enthusiasts and collectors being reluctant to embrace change, only to get some perspective after the fact. Once things quiet down for Bremont, there's a chance that the new line and new look will be unremarkable (and even appreciated) in a few year's time once the collection has evolved and matured. Also, we need to let the product stand on its own; for all we know now, the Terra Nova might be a commercial success. On the other hand, from a marketing point of view, Bremont has tried to do everything all at once. Not only are the well-loved original founders out of the picture, but to consumers, it seems like their long-held vision for the brand has been replaced too, making those decades of hard work appear for nought. This reputational hit could be lasting, and if Cerrato and Co can't turn it around, it might be critical.